The Short Answer
What is pho, and what is actually in it?
Pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup made of four things: slow simmered broth, rice noodles, thin slices of meat or tofu, and fresh herbs you add yourself at the table. That is it. No cream, no batter, no deep fryer.
It is also the food people ask for when they are run down, when it is freezing, or when they have had a week. There is a reason for that, and it is not magic. It is that somebody spent hours on it.
The broth is the whole job. Bones and water go in a pot with whole spices and stay there for hours. Star anise, cinnamon, roasted ginger, roasted onion, black cardamom, coriander seed, fennel seed and clove. You cannot rush it and you cannot fake it with a powder.
Pho first turns up in written records in northern Vietnam in the early 20th century, with the modern version traced to Nam Dinh Province around 1900 to 1907. When Vietnam was split in 1954 and more than a million people moved south, pho went with them. After 1975 it travelled the world in the suitcases of refugees. It has been a Sydney lunch staple ever since.
We have been making it here since 2011. Fifteen of those years were on Enmore Road, and we are now in Pyrmont. Our beef pho runs on a family broth recipe we have been using for a very long time. Good Food once described it as “hipster pho with a solid history. The recipe comes from the owner’s grandmother.” We will take that.